The pictures were then imported into Photoshop where they needed to be aligned. First, any distortion caused by the lens of the camera needed to be removed. Photoshop has a small utility called Lens Correction. In this window, I was able to adjust for any lens distortion and also adjust for any horizontal and vertical perspective problems. To ensure the image was straight, a tool in the Lens Correction window, allows you to draw a line between two points you know to be straight and the tool will then line the image up for you. I used this tool to draw a line between the bottoms of my ears. I also then drew another line, using the centre of my eyes as a reference. This then adjusted my image accordingly so it was straight.
The next step was to do the same with the profile image, again adjusting for any lens distortion, perspective and finally ensuring the image was straight.
When both images were all adjusted, the profile image was copied into the front image, which had an expanded canvas size to accommodate the profile picture. Then, the two images needed lining up with each other. To do this, the image was adjusted to 50% opacity and placed with the corner of the eye lining up on each image. Using the Free Transform tool, the profile picture was then rotated and re-sized so it matched points on the front image. The rotate anchor of the free transform tool was placed at the corner of the eye on both images and then the whole image rotated and pivoted around that point allowing the two images to be lined up even easier.
Overall, I managed to get most of the image lined up successfully. However, my nose didn’t quite line up and overlapped a little, although this was to be expected as no-one’s face is perfectly symmetrical.
When the images were lined up, the opacity was set back to 100% and the profile image moved to the right hand side so it didn’t come into contact with the front image. To check that the two images were lined up correctly, some ruler lines were drawn across to check to see that all the features lined up. I drew lines through the eyes, the nose, the mouth, under the ears and under the nostrils. My images lined up very well which would help when moving onto the modelling stage.
After the images were all lined up correctly, I had to start marking on the front image my topology. This started with drawing on the main protrusions and indents as shown on the tutorial. However, this did take me a while as it was not as obvious as to where all the lines needed to go as on the tutorial. I eventually managed to get the first lines drawn on the face successfully.
When the main lines were drawn on, more detailed lines, splitting the face into quads were needed. For this I used a different colour brush and started by drawing over the first lines. I then started working my way around the eye drawing in quads. I slowly worked my way out until I had completed most of the face. However, I did not find this easy and soon saw many mistakes with 5 sided and 3 sided shapes. I started trying to tweak the lines but soon thought it would be easier to start again.
I created a new layer in Photoshop and started my second attempt. I soon ran into the same problems as I did the first time round, missing out the important diamond shape on the cheek bone and creating a few 3 sided and 5 sided shapes.
To try to make this easier, I printed out my image quite large and started to just study the image and draw on the lines by hand. I found this much easier and fairly soon I had a completed topology on paper. All that was left to do with this was to transfer it onto the Photoshop file. To help with this, I used a graphics tablet which worked a lot better than a mouse or the laptop touch-pad! Finally, I had a topology that looked more-or-less right! There were still a couple of imperfections, but no major problems as the previous two attempts!
I then saved the Photoshop file very quickly and was ready to start 3D Studio Max!
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